There’s no question that Smith, at 332 15th Ave. E., is a Linda Derschang bar–the walls are covered with taxidermied critters, the room is dark and friendly, and even though last night was the first night the place feels like people have been hanging out there forever. If anyone can break the curse of that space, it’s Linda.

The Slog and Seattlest have already said everything about the look of the place, even though neither of them mention the amazing recessed shadowbox filled with a stuffed flatbilled bird that everyone at my table coveted immediately. The whole place was packed and noisy, but never so noisy that I couldn’t hear the conversation happening at my table. And the women’s bathroom is excellent, with great toile wallpaper.

The menu is small and made of many things covered in meat. We decided to order a bunch of the appetizer-like plates: the asparagus, the fried duck leg, the greens, and the “devils on horseback.” That last one is figs stuffed with blue cheese and wrapped in bacon, and I would recommend them to anyone who likes things that are delicious. The asparagus and greens were good if not particularly noteworthy, and one of my party called the fried duck leg a “duck corndog,” which was exactly right–it was covered in a thick layer of batter, which served to keep the duck nice and moist. It also did a remarkable job of soaking up alcohol, as I spent the rest of the night drinking and woke up this morning with a much smaller hangover than I deserve. That has to be thanks to the duck corndog.

If I lived near 15th, I would probably be at Smith all the time. I certainly plan to go back soon.