The mesmerizing smell of tofu panang curry wafts up at you from a green plate shaped like a banana leaf. Never mind that the table wobbles, and it’s too close to the one behind it. Who cares if there are people out the door, leering at you to eat faster, because they want in? You’re in the best Thai place in town, and the whole damned, delicious meal is going to cost you $10.

Now I know that in Seattle, we all ferociously fight over what we think is the best Thai place in town. Go ahead–start your verbal fisticuffs in the comments section of this post. How many are there, anyway? Someone once told me there were 400 in Seattle proper, a fact that astounds me. Do we have more Thai restaurants per capita, in our fair little city, than any city in the US? I know that we have better Thai food than any city in the nation. Do yourself a favor–don’t eat Thai in Alaska. Even New York City’s Thai pales in comparison to ours.

So with all this competition, what gives me the right to say that Thai Tom is the best in Seattle? Easy. I’m writing this post. But even more than that, I know. Trust me.

My best friend lives in Los Angeles but comes up to visit at least once a year. She’s not picky about what we do. She’s here to see me. But every time she visits, she demands only three experiences: whole wheat cider bread from Macrina Bakery, a salmon omelette at Glo’s, and dinner at Thai Tom. Every time we go, we end up standing in line for at least an hour. We put in our names, go across the street to Cellophane Square to look for used cds, and wait. If the line is particularly long, one of the waitresses emerges from the steamy pungency to take our order while we wait on the sidewalk. Believe me, the wait is worth it. Under these conditions, the food arrives at our table mere seconds after we sit down. We lean in, simultaneously, to take our first deep breaths of smell, then lean back, simultaneously, to sigh with delight.

And what is waiting for you? Phad Thai that will make you remember why you order it in every restaurant. A complexity of tastes, a bite of peanut, sharp chiles, and slightly bland chicken to cool everything down. The perfect Thai iced tea, the condensed milk floating in a white haze, until you stir it into the caramel-colored sweetness and sip. Heaven. Whether it’s spicy curries or delicate vegetables, you’re never going to be disappointed. And every dish is $7 or under.

How can you resist?

Even better, the minuscule setting (only five tables, plus a marble counterop with swingy stools) means that you are in the kitchen. If Tom is cooking (most evenings; that’s why the line is out the door), he’ll be focused on the expansive grill with a Zen-like intensity. Flames leap into the air with a searing whoosh that makes everyone turn her head. He throws in chiles and vegetables with an expert hand. This guy knows what he’s doing. Watch and learn. Then eat.

Yesterday, I went to Thai Tom for lunch with a lovely new friend. I knew that she was going to like it when she ordered tofu curry with as many stars of spice as they could give her. Good woman. Even as she was wiping the tears and sweat off her face, she oohed and ahhed about the food. She has taste, this one. It was a great lunch.

I love introducing new people to Thai Tom. And now, I’m introducing it to you.

Go. You won’t regret it.

Thai Tom
4543 University Way NE
Seattle, WA 98105
206.548.9548